Taco de Wolff

Data Scientist

Logitech G5 mouse disassemble

Published on October 31, 2014

Two of my mice died this month because of the same problem: the right mouse button was defect. Either it clicked twice or it clicked only sometimes. I was looking for a replacement only to find that both mice are still quite expensive and the new models weren’t to my liking either. The mice cost a fortune and it would be best to prolong its life somewhat.

So I decided to open up the mice and photographed the G5 model (forgot to do so for the Mx518 model, but the principal is the same). You just need a small cross-headed screwdriver to get started. If you need to replace a component, like I did, you need a soldering tool as well.

Opening the mouse

Unscrewing the bottom
Fig 1: unscrew the bottom screws

Use the screwdriver to unscrew the four screws at the bottom of the mouse. You can then pull it out with your fingers using the cartridge and the wire, but it shouldn’t require much force.

When opened up, disconnect the wire from the top by gently wriggling it left and right.

Removing the cartridge

Removing the cartridge
Fig 2: remove the cartridge

Unscrew the top screw to remove the LEDs indicating the movement speed setting. Underneath the cardridge there is another screw so that the cardridge can be removed.

Unscrewing the circuit boards

Unscrewing the circuit boards
Fig 3: unscrew the circuit boards

Unscrew the three screws on the circuit board. The top screw also removes the holder for the mouse wheel, and don’t forget the screw in the hole right beside.

Gently pull the white clip upwards which connects to the LEDs board, the cable should not give any friction when removing it.

Desoldering the two circuit boards

Desoldering the two circuit boards
Fig 4: desolder the two circuit boards

Both boards are connected with 13 pins, seven in a row and a 2x3 grid. These need to be desoldered before you can replace any components. Wriggle the boards loose, which may require some force. Make sure all pins are correctly desoldered.

When both are separated, you can replace the D2FC-F-7N components which is fairly straightforward.

The D2FC-F-7N component responsible for clicking
Fig 5: the D2FC-F-7N clicking component